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Dusky Pink & Purple Wildflower Mix

The perfect mix to bring bursts of colour and attract pollinators to your chosen space.

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If it's a softer, dustier meadow you're after, this Dusky Pink & Purple Wildflower Mix leans into gentle lilacs, purples, and rose-pinks, balanced with soft whites and green. Musk Mallow and Common Knapweed anchor it with long-flowering mauve and purple blooms loved by bees and butterflies, while Field Scabious and Selfheal add lilac and purple through summer. Red Campion, Corncockle, and Viper's Bugloss bring deeper pink and blue-purple accents, softened by Wild Carrot's lacy white heads and Oxeye Daisy.

It's a working meadow too: nitrogen-fixers like Sainfoin, Bird's-Foot Trefoil, and Wild White Clover build soil fertility, Yellow Rattle keeps grasses in check, and deep-rooted species like Salad Burnet and Kidney Vetch add drought resilience.

Key features:

  • Supports biodiversity, offering a generous supply of nectar and pollen for bees, butterflies, and other welcome garden insects
  • With a mix of annuals and perennials, you'll see blooms in the first year and an even fuller display in years to come
  • Ideal for those wanting to establish a mini wildflower meadow or brighten up wilder corners of the garden with minimal fuss
  • For best results, sow from March to May or September to October

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Musk Mallow (Malva moschata)
– Long-flowering; nectar for bees, hoverflies, and butterflies.

Common Knapweed (Centaurea nigra)
– Long-flowering; nectar source for bees and butterflies.

Cornflower (Centaure cyanusa)
– Iconic blue annual; rich in nectar and loved by bees.

Viper's Bugloss (Echium vulgare)
– Rich nectar source; particularly attractive to bees.

Borage (Borago officinalis)
– Prolific nectar source; highly attractive to bees.

Field Scabious (Knautia arvensis)
– Valuable late-summer nectar source for bees and butterflies.

Selfheal (Prunella vulgaris)
– Low-growing; excellent nectar source for bees and butterflies.

Salad Burnet (Sanguisorba minor)
– Deep-rooted perennial; improves soil structure and drought resilience.

Sainfoin (Onobrychis viciifolia)
– Nitrogen-fixing legume; enhances fertility and supports bees.

Red Campion (Silene dioica)
– Long flowering season; supports moths, bees, and butterflies.

Corncockle (Agrostemma githago)
– Tall annual with striking magenta blooms; great for bees and butterflies.

Bird's-Foot Trefoil (Lotus corniculatus)
– Supports pollinators; larval food plant for Common Blue butterflies.

Black Medick (Medicago lupulina)
– Early-flowering; fixes nitrogen and provides nectar for bees.

Meadow Buttercup (Ranunculus acris)
– Adds colour and nectar; thrives in meadows and pastures.

Kidney Vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria)
– Improves soil health; vital for the Small Blue butterfly.

Lady's Bedstraw (Galium verum)
– Mat-forming; stabilises soil and provides nectar.

St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum)
– Supports pollinators and adds resilience to meadow plantings.

Yellow Rattle (Rhinanthus minor)
– Semi-parasitic; suppresses grasses to allow wildflowers to flourish.

Wild Carrot (Daucus carota)
– Deep-rooted; improves soil aeration and attracts pollinators.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
– Deep-rooted perennial; attracts pollinators and improves soil.

Wild White Clover (Trifolium repens)
– Fast-growing nitrogen fixer; great ground cover and bee forage.

Ribwort Plantain (Plantago lanceolata)
– Deep roots aerate soil; host plant for butterfly larvae.

Oxeye Daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare)
– Iconic meadow flower; attracts a wide range of insects.


This mix is ideal for sunny, open areas, whether that’s a dedicated wildflower patch, garden border, verge, or meadow. It’s particularly beneficial for pollinators, supporting bees, hoverflies, butterflies, and other insects across multiple seasons. The diversity of flower types ensures a long flowering window, with different species blooming from late spring through to autumn.






















For best results, sow your wildflower seeds in spring or early autumn, when the soil is moist and still warm. Start by clearing the area of grass and weeds, wildflowers prefer low-fertility soils, so there’s no need to enrich the ground.

Rake it to a fine tilth and broadcast the seed evenly by hand or with a spreader. A light roll or press-in with the back of a rake will ensure good contact with the soil.

Water gently if the weather is dry after sowing, but otherwise, leave the seeds to do their thing. In the first year, you’ll see many of the annuals take off quickly. Perennials may take longer to flower but will reward you with a longer-lasting display in subsequent years.

A late summer cut (after flowering has finished and seed has dropped) will help maintain the mix and encourage new growth. Remove cuttings to prevent enriching the soil.


Garden lawn seed, wildflower seeds, and wildflower seed mixtures are typically dispatched within 1 to 2 working days.

Products from our agricultural, landscaping, and equine ranges may be shipped separately as they are mixed to order.

We aim to ensure customer satisfaction with all products supplied. If you experience any issues with your order, please contact us at info@kentseeds.co.uk within 5 working days of the dispatch date, quoting your order number and a detailed description of the issue.

Read our full Delivery & Returns policy here.


Q1: Will these flowers grow in heavy clay or sandy soils?
A: Yes, many of the species in this mix are adaptable. For heavy clay, ensure good drainage before sowing. Sandy soils may require a little more water in dry spells, especially in the first year.

Q2: Are all the species in this mix native to the UK?
A: The mix contains a combination of UK native and naturalised wildflowers, chosen for their beauty, wildlife value, and ability to thrive in a variety of British conditions.

Q3: When will I see flowers?
A: You’ll see colour in the first summer if you sow in spring, thanks to the fast-growing annuals. The perennials will establish gradually and provide ongoing blooms from year two onwards.

Q4: Can I sow into existing grass?
A: Wildflowers struggle to compete with thick grass, so it's best to reduce grass competition first, by scarifying, cutting very short, or even removing turf in some cases.